How our Ties are made
There is a long history of neckwear worn by Roman soldiers, whether as part of a uniform or as a symbol of belonging to a particular group. Some form of neckwear other than the outdoor scarf can be traced intermittently through many centuries. Indeed in the 3rd century BC Chinese soldiers tied silk cloth around their necks as a way of setting themselves apart as an elite corps. The modern necktie traces back to the time of the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648) when Croatian mercenaries in French service, wearing their traditional small, knotted neckerchiefs, aroused the interest of the Parisians.
Foster Barry designer ties are all handmade in England from pure silk that is both woven and dyed in England.
Design
There are literally millions of different tie designs with new ones being created all the time. As Foster Barry is, so to speak, a new boy on the block we have necessarily had to restrict the number of designs we can offer. Because of this we have chosen only the most classic of designs as would be seen in many Jermyn Street shops.
Over time we hope to add many new designs including some exclusive to us. We have some great ideas to present you, but first, with your support, we need to build our business.
Silk
A great tie is not just about the look. With silk the touch and feel of a tie is also of importance. You don’t want your tie to feel ‘thin and flimsy’. It must have a lustrous finish and a special, almost audible, ’crunch’ to the silk. This is partly achieved by using an exclusive ‘350 End’ quality silk. There are 350 warp threads every inch, with each warp thread actually two threads twisted together to give improved strength, weight, texture and fall. A special seven ply mulberry silk in used in the weft.
Our luxury handmade ties are made from three pieces of silk cut on the bias. Cutting silk on the bias is a skill that takes a master cutter many years to perfect. As we explained regarding shirt yokes, garments cut on the bias feel softer and look to almost ‘flow’. They also stretch more than those cut on the straight warp or weft grain. Ties cut on the bias use more fabric than those cut on the straight grain. Cutting is done one layer at a time to avoid the grain distorting. Working on the bias requires more care, time and attention to detail. However, it is well worth the effort as a beautiful tie is the end product.
Tipping
Once they have been cut the tree pieces of silk are carefully stitched together to form the basic body of the tie. Tipping material is then added on the inside of both ends of the tie. The quality of the tipping material is another sign of a premium quality tie. Most other tie makers tip their ties with a cheap Wool/Acrylic/Viscose tipping fabric. Sadly, this includes a number of the so called Jermyn Street ‘names’. A lower quality tipping is used because that part of the tie is not normally seen when the tie is worn. However, at Foster Barry quality matters; that is why all our ties are tipped in the same high quality silk that the main body of the tie is constructed from. The use of tipping made from the same material as the main body of the tie is known as ‘self tipping’. Although out of sight, our tipping is never out of mind.
Lining
For the lining of our designer ties we use a wool mix fabric. This fabric is used because it does not shrink and additionally adds ‘body’ to the weight and feel of the tie. Before the lining is inserted into the tie the back of the tie is pressed in preparation. After the insertion of the lining the tie is hand formed around the lining and secured with a slip stitch. This process is known as ‘slipping’ and requires great care and expertise. A small loop of thread is left in the bottom of the lower under end of the tie. This loop allows for movement when the tie wearer adjusts his tie and also maintains the correct tension within the tie to stop the unattractive rucking (stretching) effect that can appear with cheaper ties when a tie knot is made.
The Loop and the Foster Barry label
The purpose of the tie loop is to hold the under end of the tie in place behind the front blade after the tie knot has been made and the tie is being worn. Again Foster Barry tie loops are made from the same material as the main body of the tie. Our tie loops a sewn securely to the tie at both ends leaving a neat strong finish to the tie loop.
Apart from being a guarantee of quality our ‘Foster Barry’ label also doubles as a second tie loop to further reduce the chances of the under end coming out once the tie is being worn.
